Msd ready to run distributor troubleshooting

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Msd ready to run distributor troubleshooting

Remember Me? Advanced Search. Results 1 to 18 of Thread: MSD Pro billet distributor, problems. MSD Pro billet distributor, problems No fire all the sudden and no doubt I found the problem, well one more. MSD knows about the problem, they're adding a coating over the triggers now. It's caused by Ionized air they say, understandable since they do carry a substantial arc. I say seal it and purge it with CO2 or Argon, but how?

The distributor, cap and rotor looks like shit with about miles on it, I never start it and shut it off unless it's "completely" warmed up. After cleaning I did get good numbers and the magnetic trigger will fire the MSD off on the counter but while turning over it fails, no spark.

msd ready to run distributor troubleshooting

They say clear coat the trigger fingers and pickup to protect them, but people are also are painting them. I ordered a new pick up. I have No clock, even if all fuses are removed it still arcs, my new wiring has no tie ins with the stock harness other than the 2 relays which I unplugged and flipped off the breaker on the new wiring loom, is this normal and you Got any suggestions?

Attached Thumbnails. Look in the small bag that came with the 6A. There is a diode in there.

msd ready to run distributor troubleshooting

You need to add it into the alternator lamp wire. One problem with the MSD is the vent hole is in the bottom of the distributer is to small so air can not get in and out readily. So the ozone builds up. Make the hole larger.

msd ready to run distributor troubleshooting

Members come and members go, But the board keeps track of them. Or look on YouTube Click Here. Camoit, You are so dam awesome! How come you know the cause and MSD doesn't?

Now where is that freakin bag, I dread the thought. I'm sure the location is on the MSD wiring diagram, I'll look. Thank you again!! Look in the wiring manual.MSD offers several different styles of Pro-Billet Distributors, so our first step is to identify your model.

For this style distributor, the only real specification is to check the resistance of the magnetic pickup. Use an ohm meter across the two wires and confirm that the resistance is between and 1, ohms. If the pickup is out of this specification, it may not be triggering the ignition box. If the ignition and coil check out as detailed, then the distributor pickup may be at fault.

Another popular distributor is the Ready-to-Run line. These distributors are easily identified by the three pin connector that has a Red, Orange and Black wire. In some models, there will be a separate Green wire that is used for a tachometer signal wire. These distributors do not require and external ignition control as they have a built-in high output ignition module.

To check the Ready-to-Run Distributor, confirm that there are 12 volts on the Red wire when the key is On and while cranking. It is important to confirm volts during cranking as many older vehicles may have resistor wiring or ballast resistors inline which could affect the voltage needed to fire the ignition. You can also check for 12 volts on the coil negative — remember, this is only on the Ready-to-Run distributors!

Also, confirm that the black wire is properly grounded to the engine block. Setting the ignition timing advance on an engine with a distributor style ignition system can be confusing if you don't know what you're looking at. Thankfully, Jeremy is here with all of the facts on setting the timing on most any old-school distributor-ignition V8, V6, or even VW!

Read More. The magnetic pickup in MSD Distributors can also be checked with an Ohm meter to make sure it is within operating specifications.

Once again, connect the Ohm meter's leads to the two terminals of the pickup. The resistance should be within - ohms. If the resistance is out of this specification, inspect the condition of the wires leading to the pickup for abrasion, shorting or opens. If the wiring is okay, the pickup is at fault.

Are MSD Pro Billet Distributors garbage?

It took our engineering team a year and a half of development before it met their high standards of features, styling and high quality components to give you the performance and looks you want for your Jeep. Be sure to go to the snorkel product page, or the Flowmaster YouTube channel and check out our detailed installation video for step by step "tips and tricks" to help guide you through the installation process. My Account My Cart. Related Articles. Current Articles.If you are using the White wire points or electronic amplifier of the MSD to trigger the ignition, follow these steps.

If your engine continues to run even when the ignition is turned Off you are experiencing engine Run-On. This usually only occurs on older vehicles with an external voltage regulator. Because the MSD receives power directly from the battery, it does not require much current to keep the unit energized. If you are experiencing run-on, it is due to a small amount of voltage going through the charging lamp indicator and feeding the small Red wire even if the key is turned off. By installing this Diode in-line of the wire that goes to the Charging indicator, the voltage is kept from entering the MSD.

The diagram below shows the proper installation for early Ford and GM vehicles. If the PN is installed and you have spark but the vehicle will still not run, you will need a special Tach Adapter. In some instances, after installing an MSD Ignition control unit on an import vehicle may result in a no-start situation or a erratic tach.

Depending on which MSD Ignition was installed on the vehicle a tach adapter will be required to remedy the situation. A no-start situation may result from a smart ECU not sensing coil current as a result not energizing the Fuel pump. An erratic tach or non working tach is a result of the factory wire being removed from the coil.

The adapter will also develop a tach signal to satisfy the tach again. The magnetic pickup in MSD Distributors can also be checked with an Ohm meter to make sure it is within operating specifications. Once again, connect the Ohm meter's leads to the two terminals of the pickup. The resistance should be within - ohms. If the resistance is out of this specification, inspect the condition of the wires leading to the pickup for abrasion, shorting or opens.

If the wiring is okay, the pickup is at fault. Follow the Checking for Spark procedure. Details are key, and are what separate two otherwise identical engines. One example is careful preparation of the oiling system.

They may believe the factory knew what it was doing when it designed the engine, so they see no need to mess with it. What they fail to take into account is manufacturing tolerances and things like core shift during the casting process. They also may be overlooking the fact that they are asking far more of their engine than the manufacturer had intended it to provide.

These engines supply oil to the distributor gear last and via a circuitous path, which needs careful preparation to ensure adequate oil flow. There are several key areas to focus your attention, and we will highlight each of them in this story.

A little extra attention given to the oiling system with these simple modifications during your next build will pay big dividends down the road. If you suspect a spark plug wire to be open causing poor performance, check the resistance of each wire. By checking the resistance of each wire you will determine two things: That there is continuity not open and if there is too much resistance in the wire.

Use an Ohm Meter and connect the terminals to the spark plug wire terminals. Use care to make sure there is good contact or the readings will be inaccurate.

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On MSD wires the resistance should be:. If you do not know the specification for your wires, measure the resistance of each wire. Remember to divide the length of the wire by 12 to get a "per foot" measurement. If one wire is out of that average spec, it is at fault.

msd ready to run distributor troubleshooting

Solid Core wires do not suppress any Electro Magnetic Interference EMI which will interfere with electronics or rev limiters on your vehicle. A suppression style or spiral wound spark plug wire MUST be used. What kind of timing light are you using?Forums New posts Search forums.

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Everywhere Threads This forum This thread. Search Advanced…. New posts. Search forums. Thread starter Justin81 Start date Jan 12, JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Justin81 New Member. Jan 9, 22 0 1 Pittsburgh.

Troubleshooting Techniques

I bought one of these pro billet distributors part awhile back. About a year after installing it started causing the car to lose spark after about minutes of it running and would not start back up unless it sat for a couple of hours. I sent it back to MSD and they replaced all the guts including the module free of charge.

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The warranty on it was expired so that was making me think it was a common problem with these. Since then I reinstalled it and haven't had any problems, yet!Welcome, Guest. Please login or register. Home Help Search Login Register. Member Posts: I had a no start condition the other night and had to get towed home. After some investigation I found the dizzy not sending a signal. I tapped on the side with a wood hammer handle and it started right up. Ran great, shut it offno spark again.

Anyone know how to fix this? This dizzy has less than miles on it You could test to see if you magnetic pickup is working. It might have a crack in it or it came lose and out of adjustment. Bad module. My msd distributor came from factory with bad module and I lost a second one in less than two years on my Comet.

I took it all apart and tested the pickup ectI also checked all the joints ect and I found nothing bad. I was shocked to see so much oxidation ect inside the housing for never seeing water,snow ,winter and only having 3, miles on it Im going to just order a new one It sucks but I dont like being broke down. Lenz Hero Member Posts: Trying to avoid problems like the one you've had is one of the reasons I bought my car jacket for winter storage. Hope all goes well with the new stuff. Len Zielinski '64 Galaxie Toploader '69 F stick.

SMF 2.While perusing a forum the other day, a question came up regarding MSD distributors and ignition systems. We reached out to MSD to get some details about both systems. Is it a Ready-to-Run or Pro-Billet distributor? Follow the wiring and you can tell, or remove the distributor cap to find out.

Both work equally well for a driver, but the RTR will have some limitations if you want more control over timing and ignition. Ready-To-Run Distributor. The first, and most obvious, difference between the systems is the number of components. The Ready-to-Run distributor is just as it implies: just three wires and your ignition system plus an added coil is ready to run. With the RTR, you connect the red wire to the positive coil terminal along with the ignition wire, the orange wire goes to the negative coil terminal, and a black wire runs to ground.

The RTR has an inductive ignition system that will provide more spark energy than a stock-type ignition. It does have a built-in adjustable rev limiter and an adjustable mechanical advance to help set your initial and total timing. It has a maintenance-free magnetic pickup, and since the ignition control is inside the cap, there are no additional wires needed. If you already have the RTR distributor and wish to add the 6AL ignition, the two are fully compatible as an upgrade.

But the difference lies within the separate MSD ignition control, which is required for the Pro-Billet distributor to operate properly. The Pro-Billet distributor is a two-wire connection that connects directly to the 6A or 6AL ignition box. The 6AL ignition opens up more options for timing and spark control than the RTR distributor will allow.

The 6AL would allow you to connect to one or more different timing controls at a time; for example, if you run NOS you would need a Step Retard to protect the engine when the nitrous is activated and it will not connect to the RTR distributor. You can also add a Power Grid to gain timing, boostand traction controls, as well as additional timing functions with different Power Grid modules.

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Basic Breakdown. And the answer to that question as to which is better suited for a street driven vehicle is pretty simple: if you want a cleaner installation with fewer wires, the Ready-to-Run distributor is going to be the easiest to install and will work perfectly fine for engines up to compression.

You won't be able to make these kinds of adjustments to your timing curve with the RTR distributor. For a boosted engine, you'll need more control than the RTR will provide. Absolutely not! Both are perfectly suited for the type of system that our forum member was seeking, but the 6AL will allow future upgrades should they be needed. The 6A will work just fine for your street system, but lacks the rev limiter that the 6AL and the RTR distributor possess.

For a street application where the fuel mixture is often a little leaner, the long duration, single spark of the RTR would be plenty. However, in a higher performance application where the engine might run a little fatter, the multiple spark from the 6AL will help burn the extra fuel.

The 6AL delivers much more spark energy high output with volts and mJ of spark energybut it also requires additional space to mount the ignition box as well as the additional wiring. The bottom line is that the choice is yours, and depends on what your needs are: a cleaner installation, or more available features.Login to Your Account.

Remember Me? Results 1 to 5 of 5. Thread: Ready to run distributor problem. Thread Tools Show Printable Version. Filko Guest. I have a problem with ignition on my dodge engine. Already when I bought this van it had a rough idle, other vise engine is running great and it has good power.

I bought ready to run distributor with E91 coil from procomp I know it's not MSD, but maybe some one here could help mewhich didn't smooth the idle.

When I finished testing, I just couldn't start the engine and I still can't. Obviously I burned something. Funny think is that there is still spark on the plugs, on the coil is still 0,6 OHM on the primary side, but I don't know if I could measure something else like modul.

Plugs are all wet when I try to start the engine, so I think that something is wrong with the ignition. Engine is not completely death, sometimes looks like it will start, but don't start, so there is some spark after all, but obviously not enough.

Please help, I just don't know what else could I checked or do, or should I just order another distributor and coil? Thank you. If modul is burned, would there still be spark but obviously to weak, or there would be no spark at all?? I'm asking becouse I still have spark on the plugs. About us Holley has been the undisputed leader in fuel systems for over years. Join us. All right reserved.


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