By HaehlMarch 9, in S30 Series - z, z, z. I'm swapping out my dash soon and thought about upgrading my wiring. Specifically I found these products:. I will hopefully sooner or later be doing some sort of motor swap but not sure which route yet.
I don't know much about wiring but will these still be compatible with the new motors wiring harness? Also, any advice on someone with little experience trying to install these during a dash swap? Thanks guys! I did an engine swap and now i'm re-wiring the whole car.
I wasn't planning on a complete re-wire but what pushed me to do it was the gauges. I could have adapted the 30 plus year old instruments to somewhat work but would not compare to the newer technology.
Now i'm getting rid of a bunch of un-needed relays and wiring to save a little weight z. They're not the same harness.
Always a good idea to do some research before making a WAG and criticizing just because something appears to be expensive.
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Posted March 9, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites. Posted March 10, edited. You might want to add this to your list also Posted March 10, Those harnesses from MSA will not affect a future engine swap.
Posted March 11, Are you f'n kiddin' me?! Join the conversation You can post now and register later. Reply to this topicIf your Universal engine panel looks like this, and has an ammeteryou are due for some critically important wiring upgrades.
The factory wiring, with an ammeter in the panelis flat out dangerous and this wiring mess really needs to be addressed. It amazes me how many boats are out there still using this amazingly unsafe set up.
I have physically measured voltage drops of 1. That means your alt is putting out At higher charging currents this resistance creates heat and can literally lead to a boat fire.
Interestingly enough most of the Westerbeke engines never used a factory installed ammeter and it was only sold as an option. It is not necessarily the ammeter itself that is dangerous but rather the wiring circuit and the type of use a marine alternator is put through.
The dangerous factory charging circuit leaves the alternator output stud with the orange wire This grossly undersized wire is carrying what ever current the alternator is capable of producing, normally upwards of 50A A but occasionally a 72A alternator was installed as an option. Along the circuit path it most often travels through not one, but two, trailer type connectors before the charging current even gets to the ammeter mounted in the engine panel.
This high amperage charging current then has to travel all the way back to the starter motor stud, back through the trailer plugs and back through more undersized wire. Finally back at the stater motor stud it finally picks up large gauge wire at the starter motor before finally heading to the battery to charge it.
Some of these factory circuits had a 30A fuse in them, which was undersized even for some of the alternators shipped on these engines. Nuisance trips were pretty common in these harnesses.
Owners often wound up installing higher amp fuses in or simply bypassed them all together, which is unwise. With house bank energy demands getting larger and larger and battery banks getting bigger and bigger, accepting significantly more charging current, these circuits have been known to literally melt down and in some cases catch fire!
Try to focus on the red wire between the back of the alternator and the starter post.
Wiring Harness Upgrade
Simply jump the alternator output to the starter post and disconnect the orange wire. This results in minimal voltage drop compared to the 10GA circuit and much less resistance and heat without going through all that small wire and two trailer connectors.
I used this because it made it easy to see and larger wire never hurts. You can then install an automatic combining relay ACR or an Echo Charger between the banks to charge both banks simultaneously. Doing this will remove the potential for fried diodes via the flipping of the battery switch through the OFF position and allow for better alternator performance and less voltage drop.
In all this mess, this is what you are looking for, the trailer connector. Replace these connectors with a buss bar and ring terminals or butt splices. Either method will be far superior to the factory trailer plugs. This one is clearly melted as you see in the next few photos. For charging batteries you want minimal voltage drop between the alternator output and the battery bank.
For example a stock alternator with a This type of volt drop can chronically undercharge your bank and can lead to premature sulfation and early battery bank death. The owner had no idea what had been lurking below under all that electrical tape.
Let this image sink in. These two wires got so hot they were physically melted together with jacket blistering and all. A few more deep discharges on this battery bank and this could have been a full blown burned to the water USCG statistic. This wiring fix for early Universal engines, with the ammeter panel, is not something to take lightly.
Just a little oxidation is all it takes with these cheap connectors to cause resistance in a high amperage circuit. The two pins closest to you are the orange and red wire pins for the charging circuit.Download it here. Menu Menu. Search Everywhere Threads This forum This thread. Search titles only.
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Everywhere Threads This forum This thread. Search Advanced…. Log in. What's new. New posts New Posts legacy Latest activity New media. New media New comments Search media. Current visitors New profile posts Search profile posts. Boat Info. Wiring Harness Upgrade. Thread starter gypseywannabe Start date Mar 13, Tags d.
Hi All, In the process of updating my wiring harness from the original, dangerous trailer plugs. There have been rats nests at each spot behind the panels, battery box, engine. Starting to make sense of it, but still struggling.
I've cut out the old trailer plugs at the engine and behind the start panel and re-connected the wires through terminal strips, but not all of the wires make sense to me. There were even a few not connected to anything Attached are a few pics of what I am presently dealing with the ammeter has been replaced with a voltmeter. Hoping someone can send me a picture of their's properly wired, or can tell me which wires to move where - even a point in the right direction Thanks!
It looks like the loose red ring should be a spade connector and go to the positive side of the temp gauge light. If it was mine i would pull it, ditch the amp meter, replace the wires with consistent colors and change the terminal strip for a weatherpak connector. I did this mod last summer and am not happy with the terminal block. Be sure you also do the glow plug relay and loose the amp meter so there are no major current carying wires there.
In place of the amps consider replacing with oil pressure.The ES was created to fill a middle ground where the Les Paul was lacking. It gave players a guitar which offered a warmer tone with almost as little feedback. The ES became a guitar which is incredibly flexible and has been used in a range of music from rock to blues and jazz.
The ES has been in production since it was first released and has been used by many high profile players such as Eric Clapton, Noel Gallagher and Richie Blackmore. The electrical components inside your guitar are almost never seen and thus, easily forgotten.
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Your new wiring kit will fit directly into American made Gibson ES and any other ES style guitars which use imperial sized pots. If your guitar is an Epiphone ES or a ES style guitar which currently uses metric sized pots then you will need to slightly widen the holes in the body to fit the upgraded CTS pots.
I have written a helpful guide here which covers the difference between imperial and metric guitar potshow to check your current pots, and making sure your knobs will fit your new pots. ES Guitar Wiring Harness quantity. The electrical low-down… The electrical components inside your guitar are almost never seen and thus, easily forgotten.Call us toll-free, 7 days a week!
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